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By Valeria Idakieva
[Sequel to “Days 8 & 9,” published on July 3.]
After the lazy day I had spent in Pamporovo, the clear blue sky and the fresh air the next morning urged me to continue at full speed. The grass was glistening with the morning dew, the forest was awakening with the vibrant song of myriads of bugs and birds. Every single creature was worshiping life and giving its share to the harmony that reigned over the forest.
I felt light and full of joy and the walking was easy and nice. The path wove through the forest offering splendid views from time to time.
Around noon, fortunately, the forest got thicker and saved me from the sultry sun.
The easy walk through the trees continued until I reached Svoboda (Freedom) Lodge, where I was going to spend the night. The lodge is situated under Svoboda Peak, a sacred place for both Muslim and Christian Bulgarians. Six hundred four stone steps lead to the peak and the symbolic tomb of the mythical Muslim conqueror of the Rhodope Mountains, Yeni Khan Baba [his Turkish name; in Bulgarian it sounds like Enihan Baba; more (very interesting) information at the Guide Bulgaria site]. The Christian population of the Rhodope Mountains call the peak Momchil after the hero who struggled against the Turkish invasion of 1341-47. In fact, there are a number of legends about these men, and what is more, it is assumed that there was an ancient Thracian sanctuary on the peak. So, it is a peak fraught with many emotions, and I was eager to toss my backpack into the lodge and run the 604 steps to the top.
The peak was quiet and peaceful, and as the sunset was tinting the clouds and mountain tops in gentle hues I was thinking about Momchil and Yeni Khan Baba and hoping that they too have found peace and quiet.
In the morning, after a cup of coffee and some conversation with the owner of the lodge about the cloudy sky, my destination (which is famous for its brown bears and wild pigs), and the long way to the next lodge, I was on the path again. The sky made me wonder when it was going to start raining, but still the views around me were stunning.
Striding along the vast hills, my head full of thoughts about rain, bears, and wild pigs, I had completely forgotten to keep an eye out for the trail marker. When I suddenly remembered it, I realized I had not seen it for some time and I could not see it anywhere near. When I consulted the track in my phone it became clear that I had missed a turn and now had to walk through long grass, bushes, and wet patches of land to rejoin the path. After a lot of struggle, puffing, and panting, I finally came to the marked path, breathed a sigh of relief, and suddenly felt how heavy my backpack was and how much I needed some rest and food.
When my rest ended, I continued on the wide path and promised myself to keep my eyes open for the markers. After some easy walking I came to a steep, rocky stretch and decided to sit down for a while before climbing. As I was sitting there, staring at the sky, and wondering when and where it was going to rain, I could hear heavy pounding coming towards me. I quickly jumped to my feet, expecting to meet a bear or other scary creature. I had already met wild pigs before, and I knew it wasn’t a wild pig, but it kept coming nearer and nearer. Finally I saw, not a scary creature, but a horseman. He and I were nevertheless surprised to see each other, and we talked a bit before he continued on and I slumped down to recover from the stress I had suffered by expecting some unknown, scary creature.
When I gathered myself, I ascended the rocky part and then hid along the forest path that wove through trees, bushes, ferns taller than me, and amazing rocks...
...until I came to a large meadow, which I knew was near the lodge.
Realizing I was so near the end of what I thought was going to be a tough day, I almost started running and in half an hour was blissfully savouring my deserved rest at the lodge.
| Copyright © 2018 by Valeria Idakieva |
It seems your stories last as long as a cup of coffee. I do enjoy our walks together. The run up the stairs was a little hard on my old legs, however. (smile)
ReplyDeleteI'd like to have attempted those stairs too. Of course, neither of us would have been able to keep up with Valeria, but I like to think that I would have made it all of the way to the top.
DeleteI am sorry about your aching legs, but this is an international route and I can't change the trail, I had to run up the stairs ...
DeleteYou would never make it. At step 25 you'd have to stop and bury me.
ReplyDeleteThat might be the "right thing" to do, to attend to your remains immediately. But I would be sorely tempted to wait until I descended, in order to test my fantasy that, even after ascending and descending, I would STILL have the strength to fling your body over a shoulder and carry you down to the trail.
Deletesee, all us old farts are only focused on the 604 steps and our aching quads, knees, etc. not the beauty. and once upon a time, i did do maybe nearly that many steps (not at a run) up Tepozteco, near Tepoztlan, Mexico
ReplyDeleteAnd I do about 400 manual turns on my non-electric coffee bean grinder every morning!
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